There is something special about the freedom of riding a bike. Whether linking flow on a dry summer downhill, feeling the crisp fall leaves while slowly rolling a rail trail or shop hopping on Main Street, the pace of life on a bike is up to you. So is the destination.
The Sullivan Catskills have it figured out. You won’t find us slapping on spandex for a 5 a.m. crank with our paceline posse. You’ll find us rolling up at a reasonable hour to catch up over coffee with a friend or unclipping after a casual trail ride for a locally crafted pint and good conversation. That’s the heart rate we’re after. It’s a pace that works because this is a place that’s grounded in hard work, meaningful conversation and genuine humility.
We find value in things most would find unimportant, like the best way to ride Walnut Mountain Park or a favored direction on the O&W Rail Trail. We’ll tell you where there’s been a recent gravel washout on the trail, but we’ll also invite you to join the next volunteer day.
Find Your Happy Pace
“I think that’s what I love the most about this place,” says Hal Simon, owner of Fortress Bikes in Hurleyville. “For us, sharing isn’t something we need to decide to do. It just kinda happens.”
And if you rent a rail trail bike from Hal, the first thing he’ll do is listen. In the Sullivan Catskills, we don’t offer recommendations until we know what you’re looking to do.
For example, ride a cruiser, tandem, trike or eBike. Fortress has a wheel to suit your style and speed. They also have a lot of them, 110 to be exact. So yes, bicycling the O&W can be added to your family reunion, wedding party or girls weekend itinerary.
“Our bikes are retro pink and blue, so that’s a lot of fun,” quips Hal, who also sells used bikes that, as his website says, “are better than anything you’ll buy at a big box store.” He’d know. Hal cares for each one while renting them to folks looking to find their happy pace in the Sullivan Catskills.
Whether you start your ride from Fortress Bikes, which is located on the 10-mile paved section of the O&W Rail Trail or from anywhere along the 50-mile corridor that connects Parksville, Liberty, Hurleyville, Woodridge and Mountain Dale, you’ll experience the best of the Sullivan Catskills.
“There’s a spot on the trail where the old railroad cuts through a pretty spectacular rock formation,” says Hal. “Even on the hottest of days, it’s 10 degrees cooler when you pedal through the rocks.”
Then there’s the lush Catskills canopy, which will keep you surprisingly dry under a light rain and comfortably cool when the summer sun starts to hint that a post-ride dip is probably in your best interest. Local tip: It is, and don’t forget to ask Hal about swimming spots along the trail. There are a few.
It’s Just Dirt
For those looking to find a bit more grit, the Catskill Scenic Trail, just north of Sullivan County, features 26-miles of some of the finest gravel around. Originally forged for the Ulster & Delaware Railroad, which operated until 1932, the trail whittles its way through farm fields, along the Delaware River and through the types of towns that make you feel like you’re in an episode of Gilmore Girls.
Intersecting roads have names like Hardscrabble, Creamery, Blackberry and, of course, Main. A hop onto Main in any one of them will lead you to the sandwich you’ve been thinking about for the last 5 miles. Chances are one or more of the local eateries in Bloomville, South Kortright, Hobart, Stamford, Grand Gorge or Roxbury are also listed on the area culinary map.
Get Up to Get Down
For those looking to flex the travel in their bike without having to drive four hours to get to a trailhead, Walnut Mountain Park in Liberty is where you’ll find some full suspension flow.
At 265 acres, the park was formerly the property of Walnut Mountain Hotel, which was located at the top of the mountain. A boardwalk now adorns the summit and foundations and natural stone fireplaces can still be seen along the network of 13 miles of hiking and mountain biking trails that were gradually developed after the Town of Liberty purchased the property in 1960.
“It’s a great place to go for a hike, but I certainly wouldn’t recommend it to someone new to mountain biking. It’s steep and winding terrain and unless you’ve got the right bike and gearing, you won’t have a good time.” That’s the kind of honesty you get in the Sullivan Catskills.
If you do have the right bike, a full suspension or hard tail with a front shock, you’re going to have a lot of fun at Walnut Mountain Park. Not only are the views of the Catskills some of the best anywhere (more on that in our hiking blog), but the trails are built for those who love to ride singletrack. There’s a reason the venue hosted events like the New York State National Interscholastic Cycling Association (NICA) Championships.
There’s also a reason for the nomenclature to the network trail names. See if you can figure it out.
Easier trails like Yellow Brick Road (4.5 miles), Toil & Trouble (1 mile) and Flying Monkeys (1 mile) serve as an earthy appetizer for Witch Way (1 mile) and The Cauldron (.5 miles), which will reward those who crave a climb and all the tasty wooden obstacles and burly berms that lurk above on the second tallest mountain in Sullivan County.
In between laps, the park menu includes numerous picnic areas and a pavilion designed for those who need to refill the adrenaline tank. Whether by hike or bike, Walnut Mountain Park will get you. It’s that pretty.
Base Here, Ride There
When it comes to mountain biking, the secret of the Sullivan Catskills is its proximity to purpose-built, world-class venues like Plattekill Mountain, an annual stop on the Eastern States Cup Gravity Mountain Bike Racing Series or Windham Mountain Bike Park, which has hosted the UCI Mountain Bike World Series. Each offers lift-served mountain biking on professionally maintained trails and is just over an hour from the heart of the Sullivan Catskills.
“Bicycling is one of the few things you can do all of your life,” says Hal, who also says that there are few things he loves more than helping people experience the Sullivan Catskills by bike.
Whether it’s a busload of kids on a field trip or four ladies who get together every year to find smiles in “someplace new,” bicycles provide an experience that’s individual, but also possible to do with friends.
And if you read any of the Google reviews of Fortress Bikes, you’ll know Hal and his team have made a lot of them over the years, smiles and friends. Because locals like Hal genuinely care. Whether it’s advice on where to fish, hike, bike, eat breakfast or find a crafty gift, they know which way to point you.
Often it will include directions like “make a left at the brick building with shutters that might look like they need a new coat of paint but are actually perfect.”
Cool thing is, when you get to where you’re going, you’ll always find two things: a place to park your bike and a friendly face to happily point you toward your next destination. The pace at which you get there, well, that’s up to you.
