Locals will friendly-argue that the Sullivan Catskills have far more than four seasons.
There’s winter, fool’s spring, second winter, mud season, sometimes third winter, actual spring, summer, false fall, second summer and actual fall. There are, however, two seasons that are 100% without debate: fishing and maple syrup seasons.
The trick is that while each is, more or less scheduled, no one really knows when they’ll actually happen. Only nature decides when the fish will rise or when sap starts to flow. But when it’s time. It’s time.
“I’d say 70% of our maple syrup production happens in 20 days,“ says John Garigliano, owner of Catskill Mountain Sugar House. “That said, those 20 days could happen anytime in February and March. Basically, there’s a part my year where working the farm is my only plan.”
The Sweet Life of Hard Catskill Work
For John, the “farm” is a 1,400-acre sugar bush consisting of 60,000 taps and thousands of miles of lines spread over eight different plots. When the sap is running, so is he and his crew, which includes his sons, three and five-years-old.
“Oh goodness,” he says, “the boys love it. They’re riding on tractors, stomping around in the woods, getting dirty. They’re living a little kid’s dream.”
It’s a natural amusement park complete with all the maple syrup they can pile on Sunday morning pancakes. They put in the work; they get the reward. Parent-approved.
For John and others who work on the Sullivan Catskills land, there’s something wholesome about getting dirt under your fingernails. It’s long hours, labor intensive and exhausting, but there isn’t a monetary value you can place on the feeling of working for yourself. Hard work certainly isn’t a culture unique to the Catskills, but the appreciation for it may be a bit different than most places. John isn’t planning to trade in his trucks for a shed full of vintage convertibles. He is planning to enjoy a life undictated by anything other than the weather.
“Doing something that most people can’t is incredibly rewarding,” says John. “Is it tiring? Absolutely. Is it worth the long hours, lost sleep and planning for days that simply don’t belong to you? You bet. I couldn’t imagine doing anything else.”
A Good Day is a Long Year
A good day means collecting 60,000 gallons of sap, trucked from plots in 10-wheel tankers to his Grahamsville sugar house where reverse osmosis will remove the water and concentrate the sugars. At the end of a solid maple season run, the result is 20,000 gallons of two types of all-natural Grade A syrup, a lighter amber with a rich and full-bodied taste and a darker color with a robust and stronger taste.
“When we’re running, we’re running,” says John. “That means my crew is driving trucks, working the machines, packaging product and fixing things when they break, and they do. Forget watching football games on Sunday. We’re not seeing them.”
During the off-season, products are continually moved from storage, packaged and shipped, but the real work is in preparation and maintenance. Every single tree is tapped in January, each mile of line is meticulously checked, and machines get regular maintenance to make sure they perform when they need to. Being down on any of Mother Nature’s magic days is not an option.
“There’s a symphony to it, that’s for sure,” adds John. “We’ve got a process to make sure everything works when it needs to. Because when it does, we’re having a lot of fun.”
Shop anywhere in the Catskills and you’ll probably find Catskill Mountain Syrup on the shelves, but you’ll also find it throughout New York State, in California, Florida and plenty of other states throughout the country. If the packaging is labeled pure maple syrup, it’s coming from the Northeast.
Go Beyond the Pancake
Ironically, John isn’t a big maple syrup consumer himself. His boys eat plenty, but his satisfaction comes from seeing the art in motion. The conductor, after all, never plays an instrument when on stage.
Erika Malmgreen-Findley, co-owner of Winterton Farms in Bloomingburg, is a member of a different maple-infused band. For her, small batch natural goodness goes into everything – coffee, tea, bourbon, oatmeal, entrée glazes – everything. Including the craft beer and cocktails she and her husband, Kent, serve at Two Farms Brewing, also located on the farm along with 14 varieties of lavender, vegetables and 350 maple taps.
“Using maple syrup in cooking reminds me of the early stages of life with my husband. The process is warm, comforting, takes time and involves a lot of conversation and togetherness. To me, it’s love and a big part of my family and our relationship with this community.”
At Winterton, the sugar shack is a social place where neighbors gather to help with the boil. Drinks are mixed and shared. Music plays. The sweet smell of wood smoke and maple floats through friendships made stronger by the collective process.
Here, nothing is forced. It can’t be. Nature decides when the party starts.
“Whether it’s making a drink or a meal, I love all of the ways you can use maple syrup,” says Erika. “You can glaze your holiday ham and the root vegetables that go along with it, whip up a salad dressing, drop a teaspoon in straight bourbon or make a special Manhattan.”
3 Easy Maple Recipes from Winterton Farms
Maple Balsamic Vinaigrette
Makes ¾ cup of dressing or about six servings (5-minute prep time)
- In a jar or bowl, whisk together ¼ cup of maple syrup, ¼ cup balsamic vinegar, 1 tsp Dijon mustard and 1 clove of minced garlic.
- Slowly drizzle in ½ cup of olive oil, whisking continuously until well combined.
- Season with salt and pepper to taste.
- Store in the fridge for up to a week and shake before using.
Drizzle over fresh greens, roasted vegetables or grain bowls for a farm-fresh flavor.
Maple Lavender Roasted Carrots
Serves 4-6 (10 minutes to prep, 10 minutes to roast)
- Preheat oven to 400°F.
- In a large bowl, toss 2 lbs. of carrots with 1 tbsp of olive oil, 2 tbsps. of maple syrup, ½ tsp lightly crushed lavender, 1 tsp cinnamon, salt and pepper to taste.
- Spread evenly on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
- Roast for 25–30 minutes, stirring once, until carrots are tender and caramelized.
- Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with fresh parsley and thyme (optional).
Maple-Glazed Ham
Serves 12-16 with a 7-10 lb. ham
- Make the Maple Glaze (10 minutes prep + 5–7 minutes cooking)
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- In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine 1 cup of maple syrup, ½ cup of brown sugar, 2 tbsps. of Dijon mustard, 2 tbsps. of apple cider vinegar, 1 tbsp of butter, ½ tsp ground cinnamon, ¼ tsp ground cloves (optional) and a pinch of salt.
- Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 5–7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the glaze thickens slightly and becomes glossy.
- Stir in any optional spices or herbs to customize the flavor — red pepper flakes for a kick or thyme for an earthy finish.
- Glaze & Bake the Ham (1½–2 hours)
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- Preheat the oven to 325°F.
- Place a fully cooked 7–10 lb. ham in a roasting pan. Score the surface in a crisscross pattern if desired to help the glaze soak in.
- Brush a generous layer of maple glaze over the ham.
- Bake according to package guidelines, usually 10–12 minutes per pound, basting with additional glaze every 20 minutes.
- During the final 10 minutes of baking, apply the remaining glaze to create a caramelized, glossy finish.
Pro Tip: Add ½ cup of orange juice or apple cider to the bottom of your roasting pan for extra moisture and aroma while the ham bakes.
Find Your Catskills Sugar Shack
- Winterton Farms, Bloomingburg, NY: They’ll set you up with most of the ingredients needed and can point you to ALL Family Farm in Middletown for a ham humanely raised on the farm. You’ll also find Catskills harvested syrup in most every grocery store, but there is something special about picking up a gallon direct from a Sullivan Catskills producer.
- Diehl Homestead Farm, Callicoon, NY: Here you’ll find Grade A syrup, cream and candy, but you’ll also find raw milk, honey, farm fresh eggs, hard neck garlic and an eclectic variety of other products from local producers.
- Justus Asthalter Maple Syrup, Parksville, NY: At this sugar shack, they can get you set up with a handle or two that tastes just as good today as it did in 1937 when Grandpa Dutch and his wife Nellie bought the farm’s first five acres on Aden Road. For a surprise treat, grab some maple mustard and barbecue sauce.
Other local spots in the Sullivan Catskills include Wow Maple Syrup in Monticello and Muthig Farm in Liberty. Of course, any farmers market is a sure bet for homegrown sweetness, of the maple variety and others. Pick some up. It’ll taste good in any Catskills season.
